Who invented the art of bonsai? One can only imagine that in some remote age, someone in touch with their creativeness and nature had the idea to grow dwarf trees. In the first flush of this feeling, the idea must have come into his mind to copy some of the beauties of nature, in miniature, in containers- in other words, to create the art of bonsai, or dwarfed potted plants.

The oldest authentic record of bonsai is pictures of dwarfed trees and herbaceous plants in containers in a noted scroll written in 1310. Through the long eras of the civil wars in Japan the cults of nature-bonsai, flower arrangement, and tea ceremony became deep-rooted in average men and great heroes alike.

Then came the Tokugawa Era. Turning the leaves of old Japanese gardening books published in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, I often came across illustrations and descriptions of bonsai. From these I am convinced that the people of that time were very skillful in dwarfing and training plants and that they had a great desire to find new kinds of plants that could be dwarfed successfully.

When the graft unions are completed, all the branches of Sawara cypress are to be cut off and the whole tree converted into a different tree.

These are not childish attempts or vague ideas but are the products of long years of an age of military ascendancy, when every profession was hereditary- the time called the Tokugawa Era. In those wonderful long peaceful years, the Japanese people were accustomed to escape from daily life into something that interested them; they devoted their leisure time to things that freed them from the restraint of social life; they entered into friendly rivalry with their fellow fanciers or tried to surprise them in some way.

When amateurs have their enthusiasm aroused, they are always without regard for the gain or loss involved; that attitude greatly advanced bonsai.

Professional men have been interested only in seizing the cream of the amateurs’ discoveries in ideas and in materials. Therefore I praise the amateur bonsai fancier. In Japan there are nearly as many amateurs as bonsai trees. Example of an Amateur

As an example of an enthusiastic amateur bonsai fancier, I will tell you of a Mr. Watanabe of the city of Takamatsu, a place noted for bonsai and cage-bird fanciers.

Mr. Watanabe is a salaried man, past middle age. Since the time in his youth when he worked in the Takamatsu post office, he had been enthusiastic about bonsai as a hobby and had built up a varied and interesting collection. Gradually, relieving him from self-abandonment, his enthusiasm for bonsai revived and crept back into him.

People all around the world are now taking up the hobby of learning how to grow bonsai. Once the basics are learned anyone can be a grower of these wonderful specimens. Good luck with your bonsai interests.

The majority of the dwarfed potted trees which are called bonsai are developed from ordinary nursery stock or from somewhat dwarfed trees found in a natural habitat. This is where the art of learning how to grow bonsai lies.

From mountains and ragged woods, a tremendous amount of material is dug and brought to the training beds of dwarfed potted trees specialists each year. In the ease of naturally occurring, partially dwarfed trees, there is need only for a few wires and a little training. Trees that have lost the greater part of their roots are a more serious problem. To illustrate, I will now describe the collection of Japanese Black Pine.

On the mountain of Shodoshima or Shodo Island which is located in the Seto Inland Sea National Park a countless number of Japanese Black Pine for dwarfed potted trees have been dug by professional collectors. Many renowned and valuable dwarfed Black Pines were produced from the material collected here.

On the islet opposite my house a Black Pine was collected many years ago, which became the most precious and dearest of all dwarfed potted Black Pines. Seeing the spot through Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum) and Cypress-Pine (Callitris glauca) in the Acclimatization Gardens as I am writing, I vividly recall the days when collectors came to the island in autumn and spring.

The surface rock is granite. Higher up on the mountain the rocks weather into coarse whitish sand and the layer of soil is very thin; at lower levels there is a greater depth of soil and always some moisture. The summer is very hot and almost bone dry.

On the upper parts of both sides of the ridge, Black Pine dominates; next comes Red Pine (Pinte densiflora) and in far lesser numbers the Needle Juniper, Rhododendron reticulatum, Rhododendron kaemferi, Bush Clover (Lespedeza bicolor) and Balloon-flower (Platycodon grandijlo-rum). Three feet is generally regarded as the maximum height of dwarfed potted trees. To keep within the golden rule of the art of bonsai, the larger trees are often sharply pruned.

For example, on discovering a very dwarfed pine five or more feet in height with a trunk five or more inches in diameter, if the lower branches are three feet from the ground and picturesque in form (or promise to be so if trained), the upper portion of the main trunk is sawed off.

Undesirable branches are cut off. Only the tap root remains uncut. First the straw rope is coiled cautiously and rather firmly thrice or more horizontally around the ball and then all around the surface of the ball, so the very porous, coarse, sandy soil ball is firmly held about the roots; the tap root is finally sawed through, and the tree is removed.

You may wonder at the proportionately small size of the ball, but usually seventy per cent or more of the trees collected survive and become well settled as dwarfed potted trees; occasionally in very dry, hot summers, fifty per cent or so succumb.

Once the bonsai have been trained with wire for 1-2 years they become established and robust.

Even though bonsai trees look so simple and effortless, they actually take a great deal of looking after. Cultivating bonsai trees is an art form that has been around for centuries. Originating in Asia, it has traveled across the globe in popularity.

Novices in the art of bonsai need to study a great deal prior to purchasing any bonsai trees.A great deal of time and effort is required to grow a bonsai tree.

Before anything else, you need to have fertile soil and the right pots to be able to successfully make a go of it.Choosing the right kind of tree is another thing that you need to know before going shopping for a bonsai tree. There are some varieties that are easier to care for. Your best move is to select a tree that is hardy and requires the least amount of maintenance.

One of the most recommended bonsais for the novice is the Japanese Snowdrop. It is hardy and grows extremely well outdoors under the full sun. Maintenance is relatively simple as long as you water it well and make sure that the ball root system doesn’t become totally dry. Yearly pruning is necessary for this tree along with constant monitoring of the roots.

Another great tree for beginners is the Japanese Pagoda. It is relatively easy to maintain and grow and also flowers beautifully in season. The Japanese Pagoda will appreciate full sun with some partial shade. It does not like to be too hot or too dry, so it is important to keep the roots damp most of the time.

You need to bear in mind that not all species of bonsai trees have the same preferences for watering and sun exposure. Therefore, it is critical that you are knowledgeable of your plant’s specific requirements in order to grow it successfully. There are certain varieties that require repotting every one to three years. This will help the plant maintain its roots and prevent their root system from attracting pests and other threats.

When you hear the phrase “training your bonsai”, this refers to wiring the branches and twigs with special branch bender to keep them in place. A great deal of time, effort, and patience is required in the process of bonsai care, but the end result will be a beautiful bonsai tree.

Most bonsai gardeners are content with the more common deciduous, confierous, or fruit trees when creating their bonsai tree collection.  However, more exotic bonsai varieties can be found that permit the bonsai gardener to enhance his or her skills.

One superb alternative to the more frequent style bonsai is Wisteria, a native of China, Japan, and Korea.  In the wild, Wisteria can reach 30 feet or more in size.  However, because Wisteria doesn’t conform to any of the normal bonsai styles, forming them into a bonsai can be an interesting challenge.

The flowers, assuming a variety of colors – pink, purple, blue, and white – are both aromatic and beautiful. They flower in the spring at which time they need a lot of water, so long as there is sufficient drainage. Wisteria do well in full sun to partial shade. Provide ample fertilizer in spring just before they flower, then again in late summer while the leaves are still present.

Another option is Orange Jasmine which will provide a delight to the nose and beauty to the eye.  Orange Jasmine bears a bright red fruit and fragrant, white blossoms.

Orange Jasmine should be fed every three to four weeks beginning in early spring and continuing through mid-autumn. Light watering is sufficient for most of the year, with slightly more in the hotter season.

Since they grow better in filtered sun and moderate shade, they are one of the few bonsai that can, and probably should, be raised indoors.

Mimosa, or silk trees as they are sometimes called owing to their long silky filaments, are as fragrant as either of the two choices above. Their lacy foliage and puffy flowers are also just as lovely.

Flowers bloom in late April to early July, during which time they should be provided moderate water. Avoid watering the flowers themselves since, like many flowering plants, they wilt rapidly and deteriorate when wet.

If you choose to cultivate a Mimosa, it will be one of the larger bonsai in your collection since they have large leaves, grow rapidly, and are difficult to maintain at a very small size.  So be sure to give then adequate room in your display area.

An additional exotic bonsai is the Desert Rose which can turn an ordinary bonsai collection into an exciting full color display.  The Desert Rose is a native of East Africa where it grows up to 10 feet tall and produces large, pink, trumpet-bowl flowers.

Very bushy, it makes an excellent design complement to the many trees in a standard bonsai set. They need lots of fresh air and ample sunshine, so keep them outside most of the year.

However, the Desert Rose is sensitive to cold, so they should be brought indoors in cold climates or during periods of cold weather as they will not thrive in temperatures below 10C (50F).  With temperatures in the 10C-15C (50F-60F) range, they will lie dormant and healthy and during this period they will require very little water.

You can extend your bonsai design horizons by trying your hand at a few of these beautiful and fragrant flowering plants. Spaced among some of the standard evergreens – pines, junipers and others – they provide a nice contrast. You’ll also have a constantly changing display, as they flower in spring and lose their leaves in the fall.

George Dodge presents bonsai gardening tips for beginning bonsai gardeners on his Bonsai Tree Gardening site where he encourages you to experiment with exotic bonsai choices to roundout your collection. He has long enjoyed landscaping and gardening as a hobby.

One of the key characteristics of a bonsai tree is its shape. When you grow a bonsai, it’s not just another plant. Many people consider it to be an art, and spend much time sculpting their tree. Bonsai trees can be shaped into almost any form that you desire. However, there are several profiles that are more widespread than others when it comes to bonsai shaping. Here’s a look at some of the most common shapes.

Literati: This is the style of bonsai that you’re most likely to find, and it’s also the shape that most people think of when the word bonsai comes to mind. The literati shape consists of a bare trunk and hardly any branches. In this style, all the branches are located at the top of the tree. The lower part of the trunk, which is bare, is usually elegantly twisted.

Formal and Informal Upright: Upright styles, both formal and informal, are another familiar approach to bonsai shaping. Trees in these forms are guided into an erect, upright position with a tapered trunk. The informal style features the well-known curves and bends which distinguish it from the formal shape.

Slanting: There are similarities between the slanting style and the formal upright bonsai in regards to the straight trunk. The difference lies in the fact that the trunk angles away from the base, either to the left or the right.

Forest: This is a more advanced style of growing bonsais. It involves arranging a few bonsai trees in a single container in a pleasing arrangement. The trees are of varying heights, which gives the perception of depth. Most often, there are at least three trees that make up the forest style, and it’s usually an odd number of plants. However, four trees are never used in one pot, as the number four has implications in Japan.

Cascading: One of the most striking shapes of bonsai trees is the cascade style. The cascade style imitates the trees that grow on mountains or over the water, and is very beautiful. The top of the tree flows to one side and grows to the foot of its container or just beneath it.

Even though these are the shapes most commonly found in bonsai plants, you might find some new style that appeals to you. But you should always start off with a basic style if you don’t have experience in shaping bonsais. When you become skilled at this, you can start adding some distinctive touches of your own. Remember, bonsai care and shaping is an art.